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Kumaon And Garhwal
Hill roads in Uttarakhand are generally well maintained, despite the damage the rains inflict. As you ride further west and cross into Gharwal, the hills and valleys become steeper, winding through pine forests on stine roads. No: 5 was making noises and the clutch was slipping, so I fished out my tools and fitted new plates. I was lucky so far with bright sunny days. Here, a short break to enjoy the double view the danda presents.
Uttarakhand is far from over-developed and the route I was taking took in few or no lodges. My only option was to stay in government colonies. The Public Works Department of Uttarakhand were more than obilging, putting-me-up in three or four of their PWD Rest Houses. Next stop Baijro, but it came with mixed blessings. It was getting late and with Baijro in my sights. I set about finding the the PDW Chief Engineer. Local boys in a dhaba told me his name. So I found the Chief and explained my plight. You can't camp here! You must stay with my staff! My bed for the night was secure. The colony housed engineers, surveyors, forest guards and clerks. When I'd unhooked my bags and been shown my room. An inquisitve man asked if wanted to meet the Gharwal Tigers. Who could but be intruigued? Forest Guards had only the day before rescued two baby leopards from the the roadside. Setting off west again I was soon to discover Tehri. The site of an enormous hydro project. The road has gone now, submerged with Old Tehri. getting lost in the mayhem, I stopped to marvel at a dam as big as a mountain. Valley walls joined in a 30 year project. Like the pipes of a giant cathederal organ, the turbine water intakes, now deep beneath the surface.
I was utterly lost, it was huge construction site, the floor of the valley. So I stopped this dumper and asked him the way. Climbing out of what is all now lake, I stopped and spoke to an old Brahmin at the roadside. He told me his small Temple would be covered in water and that nobody cared. Still a week from Manali, destination uncertain, time for a self portrait. The sun sets as I ride on uncharted roads. And you can't stay in the jungle or the Gharwal Tigers might get you!
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Photos

  • Ladakh to Kashmir
  • Jiri Ride and Chill
  • Touring Central Nepal
  • Zanskar and Kashmir
  • Kinnaur Spiti Lahaul
  • Kumaon And Garhwal
  • Piers and Cass LZK 2008
  • The Spiti Valley 2009
  • Mark Shapiro Spiti Valley 09
  • Central Nepal November 2009

Etcetera

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