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ZojiLa was every bit as daunting as the last time. Loose rock-slides, Kargil bound heavy traffic on the low-road, landslides on the high road. We were bikes and a jeep. We'd make it through the narrow sections, so said the driver of the dump-truck, arriving from the valley on the high road. Concentration and careful riding, keeping an eye open for sliding rocks.
Sonermarg was deserted. A couple of Italian die-hards and the FreeSpirit Team, the only customers at the only restaurant open, mutton curry and rice before the descision to ride on. The road was clear, only road workers trucks were plying. Several of us gave lifts to locals from Sonermarg to their homes, down the lively Lidder River. And then the road blocks. The Jawans of the Central Reserve Police Force enforceing the curfew following mass meetings and reported shootings of terroists - Srinagar-side. "Direction Srinagar!" one a few opening lines with latthi-waving cops. Slow to a stop... "Show me your curfew pass!" "We have no passes, we are riding to Srinagar" Some just asked, "Which Country?" No bombs, no shootings, no mobs, no danger, if the whistle blows, pull-over and stop. Friendly smiles and cheers from small goups gathered in villages. At last to peace and quiet on the lake. After a tough tour, we'd arrived safe and sound in beautiful Kashmir. Thank you to all our Tour Riders. Thank you for creating, performing-in and delivering a really rewarding and challenging Tour. Sherap and I wish you all safe journeys to your destinations. |