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The Leaving of Kargil

"Huge boulders blocked our path..."

On leaving Kargil we were stopped in our tracks before we’d even left Kargil. Just out of the market and round the curve of a violently powerful Suru river. A small side stream doubled in width having channelled a million tons of sand, rocks and mud. It dumped two huge boulders blocking the road; only explosives could split such rocks.

The water flow alone made it passable only by a JCB and a hydraulic oil soaked bulldozer. Houses had been washed away. A doll’s house view, pots and pans still sitting on shelves, half the house washed away. I stopped and filmed people standing, watching, dazed. Lives washed away.

Parked nearby a military Royal Enfield sat to attention, strong and functional in its matt green livery, red stencilled numbers, logged in some distant ledger; Military Police! Stand aside!

We were running away from a weather system that’s destroyed Pakistan, demolished Ladakhi villages, the bus stand and central hospital in Leh. Actually we narrowly avoided a serious situation; our safety relied on us taking care, paying attention and riding with skill.
Leaving Kargil on the ByPass we could see the damage across the river below us.
Last Updated on Friday, 13 May 2011 04:22