Back on the highway we were heading for Dumre from where we would climb the last few kilometres to our first night’s stop in the beautiful old Newari trading town of Bandipur. Rooms were ready for us when we arrived at ‘The Old Inn’, Bandipur’s oldest hotel.

Browsing the sweet main street, Elio and I enjoyed photographing the scenic beauty of the place. The sunset was magnificent. More than anything else Elio was photographing kids playing their games of ‘Chungi’ - rubber bands wound tightly together making a soft rubber ball.

We laughed when we saw a little boy running after a big chicken with a curved knife and no pants on! For sundowners Elio suggested we drink Everest Beer. To me all Nepali beers taste the same, but to Elio it was as true a taste as climbing Everest itself. Whilst having dinner Ram Sharan - the hotel manager, enquired as to Elio’s nationality; “Italy!”, and Ram produced two flags, Nepali and Italian and placed them on the table, like two ambassadors meeting over dinner.

The next morning we kicked-off around 9:30 for Pokhara. Lakeside has always been my favourite best place for vacation and arriving in Pokhara we checked-in to our hotel. The evening lights on Lakeside and the liveliness just make you feel good! Elio was keen to give the paragliding a try, so after dinner I took him to the Sunrise Paragliding office and he booked a flight for the next day.

The next morning Elio joined the group and drove in their jeep up Sarangkot hill for the flight of the day. I stayed down at the lakeside and waited to photograph his landing.

The excitement of the flight over, we headed off for some breakfast and suitably refreshed we set off for the hour-long trek to the World peace pagoda on the far side of Fewa Tal, Pokhara’s landmark lake.

First we took the boat across the lake and then started the uphill trek to the Stupa. Rising to the challenge Elio disappeared into the forest. By the time I reached the bottom of the Stupa, Elio was busy taking pictures from all angles of the Stupa - I was breathless! I couldn't believe this Italian living in London had beaten me! Elio’s comment as he enjoyed the view of Pokhara from the Stupa, "Very Nice!"

Descending was different, I beat him down. "Any time in Nepal is tea time yeah?" Enquired Elio, "Yes, exactly!" so stopped for a cuppa near the lake.

We visited the ‘bat caves’ and the famous Bindabasini Temple where two boys and two girls - who had run away from home were getting married. A young man walked over to us and told us, "Seeing two weddings at once is a very lucky sign."

On our way back we stopped in the old town for a plate of momo and a game of Carom Board. Then it was time for some famous Damside barbecued pork or ‘Sekuwa’ as it’s called in Nepal. Between us we consumed four bottles of beer and seven plates of Sekuwa. Suitably ‘stuffed’ we headed back to our rooms for a little nap, but not before Elio paused at a Kashmiri shop (or which there are many on Lakeside). Asking only for the best, Elio bought Cashmere shawls and silk Kashmiri carpets. The shop owner, Rafiq Muhamad, in true Kashmiri style, added, "If you find this carpet anywhere else, I will give it to you, free!"

On our fourth day we left Pokhara and rode south to Tansen, a small hill station famous for being home to many famous Nepali poets. We visited the Dhaka weaving factory – a traditional Nepali cloth used for clothes and Nepal’s famous Dhaka Topi or cloth hat. We enjoyed walking through the narrow lanes and alleys of this ancient Newari town. Elio was busy taking photos of the kids and later got them printed and gave the children copies of their photos.

On day five day we rode further south to the east west highway and heading west we visited Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha. As chance would have it, a high Lama of the Sakya sect was due to arrive the same day, so there were thousands of monks and laymen already gathered to meet him there.

Touring the monasteries by rickshaw, or rickshaw puller took us to see the monastery made by German Government, telling us that this was his ‘best monastery’ in whole of Lumbini and he was right! It’s very new, extremely beautiful and very well kept. Lumbini sports so many monasteries including the Thai, Korean, Myanmar, Chinese, Japanese and Sri Lankan monasteries. But Nepal’s monastery is still under construction (though it has the look of a five star hotel!)

When Elio asked why the host country’s monastery was unfinished, I had to come up with a clever answer, "We wanted to build the most beautiful monastery so we waited until everyone finished theirs!”

Of course with a high Lama visiting, hotels were fully booked, so I booked us into a hotel some 22 kilometres away in Bhairawa, close to the Nepal India border.

Never having stayed in Bhairawa before, I had no knowledge of the town’s facilities, we hunted for restaurants until we eventually found a small place serving Indian food and beer. Later referring to the Lonely Planet guide book for restaurants, we discovered nothing had been written about Bhairawa.

Disturbed by mosquitoes and truck engines warming in the early morning, Elio commented, "Now I can see why Bhairawa is not in the Lonely Planet!"

Cheered by the prospect of leavening Bhairawa, we headed off east the next morning at a steady 90kph for Chitwan National Park. Elio was thrilled to stop and photograph a primary school morning parade to show to his two daughters back in England. I took his video camera and ‘videod’ the kids dressed in school uniform – with a tall Italian visitor, walking between the lines as if in a morning inspection. It was like Gulliver and the Liliputians, after which Elio kindly donated Rs. 5000 to the school. "Very nice!" and off we set for Chitwan, Elio remarking at times that “The streets are funtastic!”

Chitwan at last, and after checking in to our resort we headed off for the Elephant Breeding Center. Touring the Centre with four others who Elio thought were Japanese tourists. Later he discovered that they were in fact Chinese Tourists and didn't speak a word of English. For two days we seemed to be with the same Chinese Tourists where ever we went.

An early morning canoe ride on the Rapti river, saw us sharing again with our Chinese friends. There were crocodiles, a rhinoceros crossing the river and so many beautiful birds, and the odd grey Langur monkey. That afternoon on elephant safari we saw rhinos, barking deer, spotted deer, peacocks and different birds. Back at the resort over a beer, Elio enquired after the Chinese, "Don't worry” I told him, “We have one more chance to see them, at the Tharu Stick Dance."

A highlight of any stay in Chitwan is the Tharu culture show and the famous Tharu Stick Dance. And sure enough after sundown, Elio got a seat next to a Chinese girl...

"Hi!" Elio greeted her. "Mi hou!" came the answer, smiles all round and that was that!

A young Tharu boy dressed in Peacock feathers danced as he spun fire sticks in the ‘Peacock Dance’. At the end of the dance so many people came on stage and joined the dancers, including Elio and I. Our last evening on Tour.

On our last day we set off at 9am and headed back to Kathmandu. Leaving behind the children of Bandipur and their games of ‘Chungi’, the liveliness of Pokhara’s Lakeside, the monks of Lumbini, the unending scenic highways and byways, the kids of the Rupendehi School, Tharus Stick Dancers, and the Chinese girls. I hope the memories of the Central Nepal Tour will stay in Elio for a long time to come. Touring with Elio was great fun and I think I can speak for Elio when I say we both enjoyed ourselves immensely.