Paan Flavoured Chai
Saturday, 05 September 2009 00:00

"Paan Flavoured Chai On National Highway 2"

Day 1 was tough but I made it to Kanpur, where a keen cycle rickshaw walla showed me the best hotel in town. He cycled, I followed, he got 20rps and I got a room for the night.

NH 2 is well paved and after Agra the traffic thinned. Two fatal accidents – men splurged on the black-top, had me utterly focused on staying alive, and then came the rain.

Day 2 easier but grey monsoon clouds and Varanasi still distant, drove me to cover; waterproofs I have, but the trucks throw up a foul muddy spray.

Spotting small shelter I parked the bike, a tiny Paan sellers hut on stilts. Its uplifted front held off most of the rain. When the ditch had fill-up, we were 4 or 5 more. The Paan walla served sweet Paan tea in clay cups and the rain came to pass, I was back on the road.
Just before the rain broke on NH2 when I sheltered in a small roadside paan shop